History, Origins, and How to Explore the Old Town

No one can say they know the capital of Portugal without getting lost in Alfama, the jewel of Lisbon.

The origins

Long before Alfama had a name, it was already a strategic stop.
Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians used this riverside hillside as a safe harbor — drawn by fresh water and a natural shelter along their trading routes.

The Romans later gave Lisbon its first true urban structure. You can still catch a glimpse of that world today at the Roman Theatre of Lisbon, hidden just behind the cathedral.

Centuries later, the Moors reshaped the area completely. Rather than follow the old Roman layout, they built a city that felt closer to North Africa — a maze of narrow streets designed for shade, privacy, and everyday life. It’s a feeling that visitors from places like Casablanca or Tangier often recognize immediately.

During the Siege of Lisbon (1147), the city was taken by Christian forces after months of siege. Parts of the old walls — the Cerca Moura — still remain in Alfama today.

Over time, all these influences blended together. Crusaders, Moors, Jews, and many others left their mark — shaping a neighbourhood where origins became less important than the shared rhythm of everyday life.

Understanding Alfama

There’s a reason why the streets are so narrow.
A reason why this neighbourhood survived the 1755 earthquake.
And a reason why it still feels completely different from the rest of Lisbon.

Alfama wasn’t designed to impress — it was shaped to adapt: to heat, to defense, to life. Its maze-like streets, inherited from its Moorish past, were built for shade and protection — something visitors from places like Casablanca often notice before anyone else.

Set on a solid hillside above the river, it escaped much of the destruction that reshaped the rest of the city.

But more than anything, Alfama simply never started over. While Lisbon was rebuilt, redesigned, and modernized… this part of the city simply carried on.

strolling around

If you want to walk around Alfama, don’t waste time studying a map. You just have to choose if you want to visit Alfama from the top down or from the bottom up. The first choice is to go to Largo das Portas do Sol and go down the stairs towards the Tagus, without forgetting to notice the magnificent section of the wall that is on the right side as you descend. To start walking around Alfama on the lower side, go to Largo do Chafariz de Dentro and follow the Beco do Mexias where you have a public washing facility on the right where you can wash clothes by hand. Alternatively, you can go up Rua dos Remédios, with the portal of the Ermida de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios on the left, in Manueline style, just like the great monuments of Belém. In any of these cases, just follow where your eyes or the camera take you.

For those who feel uncomfortable walking around a city that they do not dominate, there are always some references, the Church of S. Miguel (with two towers) and the Church of S. Estêvão (with one tower). The area between these two churches is the most picturesque in Alfama. The visitor who decides to get lost in Alfama, in a safe, fun and free activity, will find an opportunity to take a picture in every alley and wherever they turn.

How to get to Alfama

Getting to Alfama is part of the experience.

The easiest way is to take the historic Tram 28, which winds through the narrow streets and drops you right into the heart of the neighbourhood.

If you prefer a quieter start, walk up from Baixa — the climb is short, but it slowly reveals the shift from wide avenues to Alfama’s maze-like streets.

Another good option is arriving via Santa Apolónia Station and walking uphill, which gives you a more local, less crowded entry into the area.

Best time to explore Alfama

Alfama changes throughout the day — and that’s part of its charm.

Early morning is when the neighbourhood feels most authentic. Streets are quiet, locals are starting their day, and the light is soft on the old walls.

Late afternoon into sunset is when Alfama becomes more atmospheric — viewpoints fill up, and the golden light adds depth to every corner.

At night, especially around dinner time, Alfama takes on a different mood. The sound of Fado drifts through the streets, and the area feels more intimate, though also more lively.

Trivia

• the continuous occupation of Alfama for the last 3000 years makes Lisbon the second oldest capital in Europe, after Athens in Greece
• in Alfama there were public baths until the 20th century
• “Chafariz de Dentro” was formerly called the fountain of horses (go there and see why)
• each door of the Old Wall had a name. One of them, called Door of Alfama gave the neighborhood its name.
• 1000 years ago the high tide arrived where the Fado Museum is today
• in the 1755 earthquake, the Alfama neighborhood was one of the least affected in the city
• at the top of the stairs of Terreiro do Trigo was one of the four Jewish quarters in the city